HONG KONG

DAY 57 — March 2, 2017 — Hong Kong, PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA

DAY 58 — March 3, 2017 — Hong Kong, PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC OF CHINA

For more than 150 years, Hong Kong was a unique blend of Chinese and Western cultures as part of the British Empire.  Today it is called a “Special Administration Region” of China while it goes through its 50-year transitional period from a British Colony to full Chinese sovereignty in 2047.

The history is long, complicated, and intriguing but, basically, it is a story of drug lords and their unwillingness to give up their highly lucrative trade. The British East India Company had developed a highly profitable business selling opium to China.  By the beginning of the 19^th century, millions of Chinese had become addicted and the country was suffering economically.  The Chinese Emperor banned the trade of the drug and began confiscating and destroying the shipments.  The British opium merchants were outraged and demanded military retaliation.  The British fleet moved in and wars were fought over this issue for a decade.  As the big winner, the Brits were granted Hong Kong island and Kowloon in perpetuity and a hundred-year lease on some other territories on the mainland as the spoils of winning what became known as the Opium Wars.  Mind you, Britain would not allow opium to be imported back home but they were happy to export it to the Chinese because there was just way too much money to be made.

After the Japanese occupation in WWII, Hong Kong was returned to Britain.   But the post-war years brought increasing international changes and pressures and in the 1980’s, the Thatcher government began talks with China about the return of Hong Kong when the 100-year lease ran out on the territories.   It was finally turned over officially in 1997 with the stipulation that life in Hong Kong would remain substantially unchanged and the Chinese socialist system would not be imposed for 50 years.  As someone wrote at the time, “horses will keep racing and nightclub dancing will continue.”   Officially, it is said that China with Hong Kong is now one country with two systems.  Others describe it as “the same bed, different dreams.”    It is clearly helping to give rise to the “new China.”

A lot of Hong Kong residents picked up and moved to the west when the country was turned back to China but its current population is 7 million and growing.  This is partially because China officially ended its 1-child per family policy in 2015 and partially because it is now difficult for anyone to leave.  While the zero-growth population policy was in effect, couples wanted to have boys only and girl babies were often aborted or abandoned.  So, eventually, of course, there were too many men and not enough women.  Family trees started to have too many “bare branches.”  Huh, imagine that.  Girls are actually important to a country’s future.  China has now changed to a 2-child per family policy.

Hong Kong by day:

View of Hong Kong and Kowloon from Victoria Peak on Hong Kong island.

Fishing boats in Stanley Harbour on the southern, quieter side of Hong Kong island.

Classy signage directing visitors to the Stanley Market, a popular place for tourists to shop their hearts out at hundreds of flea market type stalls.  We have gotten pretty good at speed-walking through these markets yet our fellow passengers rave about their “finds.”  My problem is that I have had too many “finds” over the years and I am no longer in acquisition mode.

Stanley Market.

Kowloon Park, a beautiful oasis in hectic downtown Kowloon.

Hong Kong by night:

The Chinese love high-end products and at night, the blazing Hong Kong store signage is a tourist attraction all its own.

Night view of Hong Kong from the ms Amsterdam.

If Hong Kong looks like it is all tall buildings that image is not far from the truth.  It is actually all tall buildings AND traffic congestion.  With 8,000 skyscrapers it has more than any other city.in the world.  It also has more Rolls Royces than any other city in the world.   It does have its moments of peaceful tranquility as well, but our long list of sites to see was quickly whittled down to just a few due to the time and stamina it took for us to get anywhere.

Hong Kong is no longer a British colony but it still uses the British driving system.  Just like in London, there are signs at the crosswalks to remind you what direction to look before you step out.

We were happy to say goodbye to Hong Kong.  It wore us out.

Next:  Vietnam.