DAY 9 — January 12, 2017 — Corinto, NICARAGUA

Nicaragua literally means land of water.  Its founders might have just as easily chosen “land of earthquakes and volcanoes.”  This is a small country with 52 volcanoes, 7 of which are active right now.  And earthquakes occur regularly.  Because of the vast Lake Nicaragua in its center, early canal planners thought Nicaragua would be the most likely spot to cut through Central America to link the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.   The instability of the land, however, convinced most engineers that this kind of investment might eventually prove unwise.  It is reported that China and Nicaragua continue to work on a canal project.

Nicaraguans could certainly use the economic boost that the canal brought to Panama.  They live in the 2nd poorest country in Central America, after Haiti.  Ninety percent of the population is considered to be poor, with families surviving on as little as $3/day.  Middle class wage earners take home approximately $360/month.  The upper 1% in “socialist” Nicaragua — just like in every other country in the world regardless of what political system it professes to subscribe to — holds most of the money and the power.

On a previous visit to Nicaragua, we explored its Spanish colonial history, its arts and crafts, and some of its interesting geographic features, i.e., the geo-thermal areas at the base of the volcanoes, famously known as the “bubbling mud pots.”  Wanting something different this time, we chose to visit a 300 year-old farm estate, Cortijo El Rosario, famous throughout Central America for its pure-bred Spaniard and Lusitania horses to see an Equestrian Show.

The Cortijo El Rosario estate is one of 14 estates owned by Nicaragua’s richest family, the Coens.  The estate farmhouse, surrounded by gardens and tropical flowers, was promoted as being reflective of the “the gentile aspects of Nicaraguan life.” (As opposed to the sheer poverty we would see everywhere else, I guess.)   It was a low-key and quiet property.  There was no elegance or grandeur — just a working horse breeding farm with lovely, but not spectacularly beautiful, grounds used for weddings, parties, and probably mostly, TOURISTS who come in for the equestrian show, lunch, folkloric entertainment, and souvenir shopping. 

After a visit with the horses and our lunch our group was asked if we would like to visit the non-profit Equine Therapy Clinic housed and run there on the same grounds by the Coen family foundation.  We all agreed, of course. The concept of the clinic is to use horses as natural therapy to promote physical, occupational, and emotional growth for children with ADHD, Autism, Cerebral Palsey, traumatic brain injuries, developmental delays, etc.  The clinic is set up for both out-patient care and residential treatment.   A few patients were there along with their moms and we received an overview of their treatment followed by an “opportunity” to give a donation.   We tourists have dollar signs hanging all over us.  If you would like to learn more about this clinic, you can visit here:  www.fundacioncoen.org

DAY 10— January 13, 2017 — Puerto Quetzal, GUATEMALA

I will admit that the Caribbean and Central America are not among my favorite places to visit.  Even when I was escaping bitter northern winters, the weather here was just too hot and humid.  We planned no formal excursion in Puerto Quetzal, “planning” instead to “just walk around.”  Whenever you hear cruise passengers  say, “Oh, we just plan to walk around the port,” it means they have no real plan at all and want to put forth the most minimal effort but still be able to say they set foot in the country . . . and maybe bring back a t-shirt.  That sounds kind of petty, maybe even stupid, but that is exactly how we felt today.

 

Many ports that offer cruise ship berths have built pretty little gateways from the ship into their city to lure passengers who are feeling too tired to do anything more difficult than find a free WiFi spot while they drink a local beer.  And these port entrances do look inviting.  But once you make it past the pretty flowers and landscaping, you pretty much find the same thing:  stall after stall of vendors selling the same clothing, jewelry, knickknacks and other junk.  Some of it might be hand-made in the country you are visiting but most of it is so clearly mass produced that your skepticism naturally kicks in.   And then there is the price haggling.  I know some people find this to be fun but  this has never been my idea of a pleasant way to spend my time.

If I see something that I like and want to take home, like this piece,

I will pay a good price to get it.  Unfortunately, this was not for sale at any price

So, here is the t-shirt to prove we were here.
 

DAYS 11 and 12— January 14-15, 2017 — Cruising the North Pacific Ocean to Mexico

On sea days it is easy for cruise ship passengers to lose track of time.  To help us remember what day it is, the crew changes the carpet in the elevators overnight.

DAY 13 — January 16, 2017 — Puerto Vallarta,  MEXICO

Mountains, colonial history and TEQUILA!

Old San Sebastian.

Bypassing opportunities to swim with dolphins, take off-road adventures, or whale watch, we once again chose the historical path and headed into the beautiful Sierra Madre mountains to the town of San Sebastian.  A prosperous colonial town in the 1700s, the village now boasts 600 residents and is a “living museum untouched by time.”  Sort of.

Modern Day San Sebastian.

Then a lesson in Tequila!  I eventually let the persistent bee have mine.