JAPAN Part 2

DAY 41 — February 14, 2017 — Sailing the Philippine Sea

Happy Valentine’s Day!

How Ron and Jane celebrated Valentines Day.

When someone on this ship gets a cold, EVERYONE gets a cold.

DAY 42 — February 15,  2017 — Kagoshima, JAPAN

Our stop in Kagoshima gave us the opportunity to visit Mount Sakurajima, the volcano that is always smoking and always threatening to erupt.  Its last big eruption was in 1914 when it spewed 3 billion tons of lava over the area, turning two islands into one.  It still throws out enough ash from time to time that residents have an actual procedure for collecting it.

We took a 15 minute ferry ride to Sakurajima Island with our big bus rolling onto the ferry with all the trucks and cars.   It was a beautifully clear day and a lovely respite before our next stop in Nagasaki.

Our tour guide recognized the block M on Ron’s hat and called out, “GO BLUE!”  She had spent a year in Ann Arbor with her husband a few years ago.  The world gets smaller and smaller all the time.  Or, maybe it is just that people from all over the world now have the opportunities to do more and go farther.

DAY 43 — February 16,  2017 — Nagasaki, JAPAN

Nagasaki was the portal to western culture and trade during Japan’s self-imposed two centuries of isolation (1500-1700).  Along with Christianity and its culture introduced by the Spanish missionaries in the mid 1500’s, foreign learning including methods of shipbuilding, mining, printing, and medicine were brought into Japan.  It remained a main trading port for the Dutch over the centuries and eventually became a key part of the Japanese military-industrial complex in the 20^th Century.

Despite that, Nagasaki, with its Mitsubishi Steelworks, was not the primary target when the US decided to drop a second bomb on Japan on August 9, 1945 three days after Hiroshima.  But the original target was obscured by clouds and the pilot had to make a last-minute decision on where to drop the “fat boy.”  It exploded over Nagasaki at 1903 feet killing 70,000 people instantly with another 70,000 to die later from the effects of the radiation

Our visit to Nagasaki, of course, focused on the Nagasaki Peace Park, created in memory of this and dedicated to world peace and the end of nuclear armament. 

The fountains in the park spray in the shape of a pair of wings evoking the dove of peace.  The 30-foot-tall statue in the background depicts a man with one arm raised to the threat of nuclear weapons and the other stretched out horizontally in a gesture of peace.  One leg is bent in a meditative pose while the other is poised to take action.

Countries from around the world donated sculptures to the Peace Park.  The people of St Paul, Minnesota, Nagasaki’s sister city, sent this piece called Constellation Earth.  The 7 figures represent the seven continents and their intertwining limbs symbolize the necessity of global peace and solidarity.

The adjacent Atomic Bomb Museum vividly depicts the effects of the bomb through before and after photos, artifacts, and graphic displays.  It is a strikingly beautiful museum with a compelling plea for peace that is not easy to forget.  But what also is not easy to forget is that throughout history man turns to war over and over again.  Someone starts it. someone finishes it.  Innocent people die and suffer. 

All war is Hell.

Here is to not having to build any more war museums!

JAPAN

DAY 39 — February 12, 2017 — Osaka, JAPAN

Today we traveled from modern day Osaka to beautiful old Kyoto to visit Japan’s imperial past.  Kyoto served as Japan’s capital for 11 centuries and 20% of the country’s national treasures are preserved here.  The area was spared earthquakes over the centuries, survived numerous civil wars, and escaped WWII bombing.   But the lovely city we were expecting has not escaped urbanization and there are a lot of ugly buildings and concrete stretched out between the ancient temples and peaceful gardens.

Our picks for the day:

Kinkaku-ji Temple, originally built in 1397 as a retirement home for a Shogun, was burned in 1950 when a mentally disturbed monk set it on fire.  It was reconstructed in 1955, faithful to the 14^th century design.  Elaborate gold foil on the exterior of the upper two floors contributes to its popular name, the “Golden Pavilion.”  We would love to come back and see this in springtime with the trees in bloom.

The Nijo-jo Castle built in 1603 as an official Shogun’s residence is one of the finest examples of building design, lavish paintings, and carvings of the period.   No photos were allowed and we had to remove our shoes to walk through the special “nightingale corridors” of the castle. 

It was said that the floors were sensitive to the “footsteps of ghosts” and would chirp to warn of intruders.  The current thinking is that the floors were not intentionally built that way but developed the “singing” after years of wear and tear just like many other floors do.  So now we know to stop worrying about any floors we have that squeak.  We will just invent a fanciful story to entertain future generations.

The Ninomaru Garden behind the Nijo-jo Castle is a large-scale garden designated as a Special Place of Scenic Beauty.  In the center of the pond is the Island of Eternal Happiness.  Ron and I are thinking we should start giving elegant names to the beautiful oases on our properties at home such as the Shore of Sandy Bliss at Fisher Lake and the Field of Endless Free Golf Balls at the PGA Village.

On our drive out of Kyoto back to Osaka, we saw many locals on the streets dressed in traditional costumes.   Kimono Rental Shops flourish here as many young people enjoy dressing up for special occasions.

DAY 40 — February 13, 2017 — Osaka, JAPAN

On our second day in Osaka we traveled to the beautiful Nara area, the first permanent capital of Japan and home to some of the largest and oldest Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines.  

Construction of the Todaiji (Great Buddha) Temple was begun in in 743 and houses a colossal bronze statue of Buddha.  It burned to the ground a couple of times over the centuries and was last rebuilt in 1700.

Horyuji Temple Main Hall and 5 Story Pagoda

The buildings at Horyuji Temple are the oldest examples of wooden architecture in existence in the world.  It is considered the greatest of all Buddhist temples in Japan for its religious significance, artistic importance, and its continuity, surviving WWII intact.  The Japanese see the strength of harmonious spirit of the temple’s founder as concordant with the conscience of the world’s people which allowed it to survive and not get bombed to bits.

Kasuga Taisha Shinto Shrine was constructed in 768.  Its eerily beautiful landscape of 2000 moss covered stone lanterns must be even more mysterious when they are lit in August and February for festival celebrations.

1200 sacred deer run freely throughout Nara.  So accustomed are they to being fed by visitors, the # 1 death for the herd is choking on plastic wrappers.

DAY 34 — February 7,  2017 — Guam, USA

Guam, a US Territory since 1899 is the place, residents say, “Where America’s day begins.”  It is 5,803 miles from the US mainland.

We were welcomed to Guam by a K-12 classmate of Ron’s from Three Rivers, MI.  Fran O’Dell Baumann and her husband, Ladd, have lived in Guam for 43 years, moving there from Oregon in 1974 when they decided they might like to live somewhere a little warmer.  They raised two daughters and enjoyed long careers on this beautiful island which has undergone a myriad of changes while they have been here.

Ladd and Fran Baumann with Ron.  She recognized him right away. It must have been because of the hat.

They met us at the port, waiting patiently while the Guam Immigration and Customs service took their sweet “island time” clearing the ship and its passengers, finally letting us disembark more than an hour after our expected time.  Fortunately, this was something the Baumann’s understood, given their long experience with island bureaucracy.

They planned a wonderful day for us, showing us their favorite parts of the island and their beautiful home on a ridge in central Guam with magnificent views of both the Pacific Ocean and the Philippine Sea.  We also learned about the snakes and wild boars that visit them often, the 20 typhoons they lived through over the years, their interesting careers in law and advertising, and the ever-changing face of Guam.  We explored all manner of subjects from early Guam history to what the island and its population are dealing with today.  We enjoyed meeting their friends as we traveled the island because when you live somewhere for 40+ years, you know a lot of people.  It was a delightful day made all the more so by re-connecting with lovely, generous people from home in a place that is very far away.

The stunning sculpture at Two Lovers Point (above) depicts two ill-fated lovers who, forbidden to marry, tied their hair together and leapt to their death from a 378-foot high cliff.

I should also mention that the weather was gorgeous — sunny, breezy, and warm.  But it is an island in the Pacific Ocean with fabulous beaches, dramatic cliffs, and amazingly clear blue-green seas right out of a travelogue.  This is what you should expect, right?  Apparently not.  It is winter here and it can be stormy and unpleasant.  Fran and Ladd were pleased to be able to show us around on such a beautiful day.  And we were pleased to be able to share it with them.  What an amazing day with memories made all the more special by these two wonderful friends.

Si yu’os ma’åse’ Fran and Ladd.

DAY 35 — February 8, 2017 — SAIPAN, NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS

Awakened early by a lot of ship movement and NOISE, we looked at the clock and wondered why we were not already docked, as we were supposed to have been by that time.  When we flipped on the TV to see what our progress was, the monitor said we were 3 miles from Saipan, then 5 miles from Saipan, then 4.5 miles from Saipan.  Eventually the Captain announced that he was giving up because he felt he could not bring the ship into port safely.  He reported there was quite a gale blowing and we would see unsettled seas for the next four days as we sail for Osaka, Japan.  He apologized profusely for another round of wobbly walking about the ship.  As it turned out, the early wake-up, a gray, rainy day combined with the rocking cradle movement of the ship, gave a lot of us the opportunity for a nice long afternoon nap. 

Many passengers were quite disappointed because the opportunity to visit Saipan does not come along very often and our visit the day before to Guam had been particularly beautiful.  Also, not stopping in Saipan did not mean that we would get an extra day anywhere else.  Port stop schedules are not very flexible and have hefty fees involved.  By choosing not to stop in Saipan, the Captain of this ship did not save any money in his budget and even making a route deviation for a scenic sailing past Iwo Jima, as was suggested by some passengers, was too expensive to make happen.  So, now, our slow boat to China (and Japan) just got a little slower.

As we sail on to Kagoshima, Japan, we will sail past Naha, Okinawa, where our US Marine grandson LCpl Nicholas A. Raifsnider is stationed at a Navy base.  We will wave as we go by.

DAY 36 — February 9, 2017 —  Sailing the Philippine Sea to JAPAN

Rough seas again today.  The walls, ceilings and floors are creaking loudly all over the ship.  The noises coming up the elevator shafts are particularly alarming but, apparently, all is well and everything is happening as scheduled around the ship.

Everyone worried that this would be a repeat of the uneasy high swell sea days we had between San Diego and Hawaii which was very uncomfortable for many.  However, we are cutting through high waves with ease.  The rolling seas and crashing waves are awesome to behold but we must behold them through windows because the crew has blocked all exits to the outside decks.  Safety first.  No cruise ship captain is interested in bad headline news.

DAY 37 — February 10, 2017 —  Sailing the Philippine Sea to JAPAN

Rough seas continue.  Our position:

27°02.56’ N

139°13.70’ E

DAY 38 — February 11, 2017 — Sailing the Philippine Sea to JAPAN

Looking ahead to the weather in Japan, everyone is getting their cold-weather clothes ready.  After a month of very warm weather from Florida through the Caribbean to Hawaii and Guam, we are now looking at temps in the 30’s and 40’s for the next two weeks.  I’m looking forward to not sweating profusely everyday.

DAY 32 — February 5, 2017 — Cruising the North Pacific to Guam, USA

This is how we stay in touch what time it is in the rest of the world.

DAY 33 — February 6, 2017 — Cruising the North Pacific to Guam, USA

Super Bowl party at 8:30 on a Monday morning.  Bring on the beer!  Sadly, we do not get to see any Super Bowl commercials.  At this point in our journey, all commercials on ESPN Live are either for upcoming NBA games or for Australian football.  But we did get to see the Lady Gaga halftime show and cheer on the New England Patriots for an exciting comeback win.

Overnight, sailing into Guam, the 10th port on our world cruise, we sailed over the Marianas Trench.  At its deepest point, 38,198 feet, it is deeper than Mt Everest is tall.

 DAY 31 — February 4, 2017 — Cruising the North Pacific to Guam, USA

Enjoying the beautiful, sparkling blue ocean on sea days is a big part of why we like to take long cruises.

DAY 30 — February 3, 2017 — Cruising the North Pacific to Guam, USA

Ship Floral Tour:  Plant and flowers decorate all the public areas on the ship but the most elaborate are featured in the atrium and library areas.  They are changed out every 10 days or so depending on where the ship stops and what  kind of flowers they receive there.  And, of course, what they receive is not always what they ordered so the designers have to be flexible.  The design team is a couple from the Netherlands who are contract employees from Dianthus, International.  They have a budget of about $80,000 for a cruise of this length.   They like to use tropical plants, baby's breath, chrysanthemums, and cast iron plant leaves.  And colored zip ties from Michael's to hold everything together.

 

DAY 28 — February 1, 2017 — Cruising the North Pacific to the MARSHALL ISLANDS

Jane gives up on trying to treat her cold with Dayquil/Nyquil and spends three hours in the ship’s medical Center being diagnosed with acute airway obstruction, getting a Nebulizer treatment and meds, and leaving with a $336 bill.

It is nice to know the ship has a fully equipped medical facility and an Intensive Care Unit.  Two doctors and two nurses are on-board to provide potential treatment to 1100 passengers and 500+ crew members.  But getting sick on a cruise can be pretty expensive and insurance may or may not reimburse.  Plus, at their prerogative, the doctors can isolate you in your cabin until they decide you can rejoin the general population AND they can put you off the ship at the next port if they feel you need more treatment than they can provide.  There is no arguing with that decision.

DAY 29 — February 2, 2017 — Majuro,  MARSHALL ISLANDS

Our visit to Majuro in the Marshall Islands was a first for everyone.  A large coral atoll of 64 islands (in the Marshall Islands), it has never been on the list of must-see ports in the Pacific Ocean and HAL actually didn’t have anything planned for us to do there.  The Visitor’s Bureau of  Majuro had other ideas and gave us a big welcome, sending shuttle buses to pick us up at the port and delivering us to the park in the town center, where they had set up a performance tent, offering us music, dance, food, and crafts all day.

Students from the local schools sported t-shirts designed especially for welcoming the ms Amsterdam.  It was a HOT, HOT day but everyone had a great time.

The Bikini Atoll Town Hall is also located in Majuro since it cannot be located on the Bikini Atoll.  That circle of 23 coral islands was rendered uninhabitable by the detonation of 23 US nuclear devices between 1946-1958, during the Cold War nuclear arms race with the Soviet Union.  This is the beginning of our immersion into the WWII Pacific theatre history, with visits to Guam and Saipan to follow in a few days.

The town of Majuro is working on its tourist attractions.

DAY 25— January 28, 2017 — Cruising the North Pacific to the MARSHALL ISLANDS

Celebrating Chinese New Year today with special decorations and cooking classes.

And for some reason, we are also celebrating Spam, the miracle food that was created to feed the troops in the Pacific in WWII and has remained wildly popular in Polynesia and Micronesia.  You can get SPAM in just about any flavor now and it even has become a flavor of its own.  Yum. 

DAY 26— January 29, 2017 — Cruising the North Pacific to the MARSHALL ISLANDS

Ron and I spend the afternoon with the ship’s popular and amusing Cellar Master, Jacques, learning how he chooses food and wine pairings for this voyage.   The program included some appetizer samples to try with an ample pouring of the Amsterdam’s best 3 buck champagne. There were no tastings of the wines he was discussing.  But, then again, it was a free event.  And it was fun.  There is little pompousness surrounding the wine program on this cruise.

The NFL Pro Bowl was televised at 3:00 pm with hardly a single guest noticing it. 

We have one of the voyage’s special theme Gala nights tonight, featuring the Black and Silver Ball following dinner.   It turned out to be a large, lively party with hundreds of attendees and the wonderful Amsterdam orchestra providing the dance music.  There is quite a ballroom dance contingent on this cruise and they partied (almost) like they were young again.

Day ??? — January 30, 2017 — Cruising the North Pacific to the MARSHALL ISLANDS

This day literally disappears in preparation for crossing the International Date Line.

DAY 27— January 31, 2017 — Crossing the INTERNATIONAL DATELINE

On this world cruise we will receive 24 notices to set our clocks FORWARD an hour so we can stay current with the time zones we are passing through.  Today, we received a notice that the ship’s clocks would be turned FORWARD 23 hours as we passed from the Eastern Hemisphere to the Western Hemisphere.

The International Dateline has no force in international law, it is simply a matter of convenience for travelers circumnavigating the globe.   It was drawn by the British Admiralty in 1921.  Magellan’s crew was the first to realize they came back home one day earlier than they thought had passed on their voyage.  Jules Verne capitalized on this mysterious time travel when writing about Phileas Fogg in his attempt to race around the world in 80 days.  Fogg thought it took him 81 days and was surprised to learn that he had lost a day along the way, enabling him to actually win the bet.

The International Dateline is also not straight.  It wiggles around a bit to accommodate the political and economic alignments of the various countries affected.  We crossed it on

January 31st at 7:47 pm

11°17.2’N

179°59.9’E